Some people are happy taking wedding photos, or shooting sport. Others like to be out in the great outdoors capturing the magic light of dawn, or taking stock images for picture libraries. Some people are born to sell; others are terrified of trying to sell their work directly to say a gallery, or cold calling prospective clients. What’s right for one person can be totally wrong for someone else.
Here are a few pointers that are worth bearing in mind:
- Find something you’re comfortable with and passionate about.
- Match the business to your own strengths.
- Look for multiple streams of income – have more than one source of income.
- Carry on learning – the day you stop learning is the day you start to die. Take advice from successful people; you’ll find most of them are happy to help.
One thing you must remember: it’s not finding the best photo opportunity that’s the really important thing; it’s making it work. The successful business person is the one who makes a choice, sets some goals and then gets on with it; working at it until they are successful. You can do the same!
Figure out the angle or slant or “hook” of the article, based on your research of the publication and your personal point of view.
Research your own subject thoroughly. Illustrate it with meaningful photos.
Write a one or two-page query letter on professional-looking stationery. a.) Format: Typewritten (word processed), in accepted business letter format. Open with “Dear Mr. or Ms. Last Name,” not “Dear John or Joan.” Spell check, proofreading it as often as necessary, to make it flawless. One typing error or misspelled word can spoil the professional impression you want to create. b) Content: Your first paragraph should provocatively refer to your story idea, with a question, a brief story, a quote, an event, etc…. You must grab the photo editor right away or you’ve lost him/her. Your next paragraph or two can explain your photo story idea in more detail. Following that, in the next paragraph, say something about yourself, your credits, or whatever else you think the photo editor ought to know to underscore your track record and position to deliver what you promise. Include information about your website and a sampling of on-line
Digital online photo processing is actually misleading. The photos are not processed with negatives as the word “processing” implies. When you take digital photos and store them on your computer in a usual way they are ready to be uploaded to a digital photo service. There are many companies that will print your digital photos for you online. We will mention those later in the article. The service prints your digital photos. This is the touchy part because there are some companies that will alter your photos before they are printed in their attempt to make the picture “better”. There are also companies that advertise that they will not alter or touch-up your photos.
Like any business the prices vary. So do the services. With a higher priced photo printer you get a lot of options such as photo albums, free photo editing software and usually a free membership that offers so many free photos when you sign up. If price is your only criteria for a photo printer you can find 4X6 prints for around 12 cents each. If you want other options and an overall better print quality then you can pay about 36 cents
The basic end point you are trying to achieve is to underexpose your subject. The best way to do this, and for it to have some effect, is to have your subject against a bright background – the sky or a window and to expose for the background.
When outdoors, point the camera at the sky (not the sun) to get your exposure and either transfer those readings manually or use “exposure lock” to keep them in the camera when you take the shot (this can be achieved often by pressing the shutter halfway down and holding it there whilst you recompose for the subject).
If indoors, have your subject against a window and expose for the window light itself.
The brighter the sky (or window light) the more contrast there will be between the subject and the background and therefore the silhouette will have greater impact and crispness. Use different settings until you get it right – sometimes the background can turn out a bit muddy looking.
You may need to experiment as the technique is open to distortion because of a number of variables. Give it a try.
The underwater cameras are almost similar to the cameras used on land. The only difference is their being waterproof. There are two types of underwater cameras, namely the housing system cameras and the amphibious cameras.
Housing system cameras are considered superior for their accuracy of composition and adaptability in most underwater situations. The features also include the variety and flexibility of the lenses. There is an SLR camera placed in the system for auto-focus and advanced exposure control. Housing systems are preferred for taking macro- shots. There are 35mm land cameras that are provided with an acrylic or aluminum watertight housing. It enables viewing through the lens more accurately and better composition control. It is generally more expensive and heavy to carry along. There are a variety of manufacturers producing underwater housings, mainly Canon and Nikon.
Amphibious Cameras are also designed to be waterproof. They work similar to other cameras. The Nikon is considered for taking wide-angle shots. Amphibious systems are small, compact and easy to transport, in comparison to housing systems. They are also called submersible viewfinder cameras. Photographers need to estimate the focus distance, since it causes difficulty in composing images. They are highly
If you’re shooting a portrait or close up where the subject fills the frame completely and your shooting in bright sunlight where the person is partly back-lit, the answer is most definitely yes!
It will bring the image to life by making it stand out against the background, it will also light up the face helping to remove unwanted shadows and adding a sparkle to the eyes.
You see, when you are shooting pictures of people where the majority of the light is from behind or where the sun is reflected off water, without your flash turned on their face will be too dark .
The same applies when the sun is casting a shadow across the face but with the use of your flash, you can eliminate dark shadows from the eyes and nose and create a better result which will please the most discerning critic. In affect this also helps to soften the face and in some cases helping to hide wrinkles, but remember you cant please everyone.
Which reminds me of the story of the wrinkled old Woman that had her picture taken by the local portrait photographer and even after
High Investment Trip
For over 12 months I’d planned and prepared for this wilderness landscape photography trip to outback South Australia. I’d driven about a third of the way across the continent to get to my home base at Roxby Downs, a mining town in the arid desert. I’d driven on pastoral station roads for 82 km to Bosworth Station Homestead where I left the car and trailer. I’d ridden on my ATV (that’s a four wheel motorbike) for two hours over the roughest and rockiest ground you could imagine and set up a base camp on Andamooka Island.
Light Meter Lost
I camped the first night and went photographing just on daylight. At the start of my afternoon photo session my light meter was missing. It must have fallen out of my coat pocket while I was riding. If you could see the million, trillion rocks strewn over the desert and where I’d been on the bike, you’d understand that it just wasn’t worth looking for the meter. Five days of photographing in front of me and no way of getting accurate light readings.
Applying the Sunny 16 Rule
The Sunny 16
Image resolution explained: Photography resolution is a measurement of image quality, so you may define resolution by how much detail is in your print. If your print has sharp detail you may consider your image to be of good resolution. If detail is blur in your image you may consider your image to have poor resolution. Good resolution is a direct result of having a large number of pixels in an image.
Pixels explained: Digital images are made up of millions of small dots – each dot is called a pixel. Each dot contains a small piece of image information, and when added together with the other pixels you’ll get your final image.
Print resolution is measured in pixel per inch (ppi) or in dots per inch (dpi) – both hold the same value. 300ppi means that there are 300 pixels per inch or 90,000 pixels per a square inch.
What size can I print my images?
A digital image that’s 1500ppi wide will print a 15-inch wide print if the print resolution is 100ppi.
If you change the same image to a print resolution to 300ppi your final print size will become a
The lure of the chase and the unexpected images resulting from it will keep you amused for hours. But taking a successful picture can be a bit tricky. Follow these simple rules to enhance your rewards:
- be prepared for anything: things have a habit of happening just when you least expect it
- have your camera with you always: without your equipment there will be no shot
- watch people: their actions and expressions are what you are trying to capture
- be bold: to get that shot you need to be there in the thick of things
- be watchful: almost anyone can be the subject of candids
- snap first, think later: the chance will pass you by if you let it
- set a fast shutter: either your subject or you might be moving
- use remote control if needed: this way, you can appear inconspicuous for some of your shots
- act quickly: blink your eye and your moment is lost
- use a long lens: isolate you and your subject
Many photographers fail with candids through their shyness. Whilst it can be difficult to shoot candids, the more you try, the better it
The old camera wasn’t bad, but there were certain situations where it was difficult to get good pictures with it. When taking pictures at my son’s basketball games, for example, the camera would slow the shutter down to try to improve the exposure, and this would cause the fast-moving players to just look like a blur. The flash was of no help, because it didn’t work well from that distance. All I could do was change the ISO sensitiviy, and that made the pictures grainy. Also, the camera was slow, so I’d often miss a good picture by about half a second. At football games, I had another problem; the players were just so far away that the camera’s zoom wasn’t enough.
For a while, I tried using my old Yashica 35 mm film camera. I even bought a fairly large telephoto lens off eBay and managed to get some really nice football pictures that way. Unfortunately, though, I found that I wasn’t saving any money by not buying a new digital as the photo processing was so expensive, especially by the time I added the extra cost of asking for cd’s. Also, the Yashica had a